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Abkhaz troops in Sukhumi. Abkhazia’s defense minister, General Major Mirab Kishmaria, said he and other Abkhaz officers spilled blood to win their independence.

20 years after Abkhazia declared independence from Georgia, TIME contract photographer Yuri Kozyrev returned to the region to document the place where he vacationed as a boy and later photographed a brutal war.

See more photos here.

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